Monday, June 13, 2011

From Tamara

Blog #3
The three day weekend was marked by the dragon boat festival; however, for this intershiper it wasn't field with mystical lights and ancient precessions. Instead it was filled with a few tours to local and historical sites which long ago may have held such mysticism. The first was a trip to the Yonghegong Lama temple, a well kept and working Tibetan/  or Yellow Sect Lamaism temple. Being no stranger to temples, I was prepared for the usual: detailed entry ways, over arching tiled roofs, neatly swept stone or rock court yards and in the main building a bronze, gold laden or wooden figure. What meet me was quiet something else. I played tourist and accompanied the undergraduates from San Diego's immersion program, which was a change all its own (and something to dig into in future blogs). What greeted our group was an unexpected surprise, an entire temple that was brightly colored. The art was freshly painted and the figures inside each component lacked any dust at all, many even laid claim to brightly colored streamers. Being that the major college entrance exams were around the corner the temple was filled with activity of students and the powerful but enchanting smell incents. Amongst the crowd (which is always present from what I've seen), the place was rather breath taking. Being someone use to temples of more unkempt sorts it was amusing and unnerving to see the attempts at redoing art of the past. The main statue itself was as its Guinness world record plank denotes a shining example of Buddhist (or Buddhist-like) architecture out a single thing of sandal wood, though I must say the facial features left something to be desired.
On to the Temple of and the imperial academy, which were by far the most solemn of the places I've seen, the architecture was very different and the feeling of academic integrity and uniformality was pervasive. I tend to get sentimental and upon entering the main component (Hall of Great Achievement) felt rather saddened to see the implements once played and offerings once given to Confucian (mainly to the memorial tablet placed there) cover in a layer of dust, not a single incent lit in his honor. While I can't agree or disagree with the treatment, it definitely left a lasting impression. Perhaps one left more for those that contemplate the political and social changes of this country then those enjoy the now.
To my dear surprise my group also visited the Temple of Heaven, a much more active place that replaced much of the sentimentality of the previous temple as a lingering after thought. The temple is massive and while I'm not sure our guide was one of the bests (I believe you truly get more from reading the placards post before each area, then from the guide), it was something I recommend. The structural set up, design and overall feel of the place was breath taking. Just looking down from the ceremony steps (Circular Mound Altar) gave you a sense of the gravity to which being in such authority holds. The neat fact that the surrounding walls of the temple of heaven were to act as a natural loud speaker (Especially in the Hall of Prayer for Good Harvests), speaks volumes to the innovation of the time period and even more so to the childish nature in myself to which I desired to test such a set-up. Luck for me some elementary students were attempting it for me (appeared too many people were there and chatting for it to work properly).
Included in this trip was lunch at a vegetarian restaurant to which there were endless dishes that made you wonder why you ever ate real duck when tofu duck tastes just as good.

The next two days were filled with a less packed schedule but none the less eventful. I headed to the summer palace which is not a far jot from Peking University Main campus, about 3 stops via line 4. The reason this took 2 days was not purely due to the size of the place (but heaven knows after seeing a map, I only saw 3/4 of what’s actually there) but actually because after my jot to the other three locations my camera's battery couldn't withstand another trip and rightfully died as I entered the Tower of Buddhist incents.
So I actually made the trip twice and it was none the less breath taking. There are many ways you can enter the summer palace I actually approve of the North palace gate route in which you take the 2nd to last stop on line 4 and climb the mountain (more hill-like) of Longevity and make your way through the Tower of Buddhist incent down into its lake front entrance. You won't be sorry as you will find yourself peaking out of the Tower to a cliff dropping sight, were all of Beijing sits below. Luckily for me both of my trips were done during a cloudy day so heat wasn't an issue (though I am also the person who doesn't feel the need to turn on my ac either). But yes, it was a perfect time to go. The area is always crowded but not so much as if you come from the lower gates and climb up through the main section via the east gate. It’s amazing, the architecture just breathes life into the place and if you have time to wander, look up and see all of the renditions of the palace and wildlife painted upon the eves. And don't be surprised if a guy and his young wife happen to ask to take a photo "with" you, it just seems the "touristy" thing for them to do. Though my skin still crawls at the idea of being in photos with people I don't know (hence why I never smiled in them). If you have time and an extra 10 yuan slide into the grand theater and watch a performance or two, it’s also one of the only parts of the palace that seems to have been missed by the repainting and new trim. Adding to this, as you pass buildings with locked doors, look into the windows, you'll see artifacts and relics on display at each window. It was something I haven't seen done in other temple or palace visits I've made and was rather amusing.
Overall, I would suggest setting at minimum 3 hrs to visit the summer palace and if your adventures maybe 5 or more in order to walk the more expansive parts, I don't think you will be too disappointed in the results. Hence, I suggest going with a friend or by yourself, as a group for such a trip feels too pervasive and without anyone setting a time schedule or meeting place it can be a nice change from the city limits.







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